The objective of this video is to help do it yourselfers decide between genuine OEM car parts and aftermarket car parts.
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Disclaimer:
TrackPalmer assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. TrackPalmer recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of TrackPalmer, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not TrackPalmer. Due to factors beyond the control of TrackPalmer, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information.
Thank you for the info I have been going threw this with repairs to my own cars, I have an Audi and have a dealer that I deal with on the east coast and I get good quality parts at a fair price, But I have an Oldsmobile that I have been buying aftermarket parts and I have had nightmares I have decided not to buy aftermarket parts because I do not have the time to go back and repair something that I just repaired.
I purchased my vehicle from Conicelli. I don’t own a Toy. I have a Hon. I am looking to replace the struts and shocks. It’s been 14 years. Mind you, there is no rattling, bouncing, bad noise I’ve rough patches, and there is drifting and the tires are wearing funny. I got to this video doing research on the parts. I wanted to avoid having to compress springs and I do not have the tool to do so and want to avoid purchasing such tools.
I think we are from the same Island. Good to see.
I watched some other videos bit this one long comment has to do. My brake pads are original after 270,000 miles and I decided to replace the rotors and pads because I no longer maintain my car at the dealership and to resurface them is a problem.
I will be joining the Toy following shortly when I purchase a Toy for my wife. The dealership can maintain that one as tax write-off.
I am holding out for an electric Hon. 2024 they say. I’ll subscribe from my neglected auto channel Maintaining 18 Autos.
Thank you for a very informative video. truth be told even original equipment manufacturers can sell you inferior parts as well. Case in point I have a 2012 Toyota Prius V. The OEM manufacturer for these parts is KYB. For this reason I felt safe in purchasing a pair of ready struts made by
KYB. I ended up having to replace the new struts because they were making noise, particularly in the mounts. Even the replacement struts made the same noise. The lesson I learned here is even if the struts may or may not be of the same quality as what goes on Toyota vehicles, the mounting hardware, that being the mounts and the Springs are not the same quality. The OEM manufacturer apparently cut corners in this case for aftermarket sales. This is why Toyota charges so much more for struts alone, not including mounts or springs. I wasn’t willing to swap them out a 3rd time and the only other ready struts available were Monroe which had a bad reputation for lack Of longevity. After a year they have quieted down some but not completely. If I had to do it all over again I would not touch a ready strut, I’d just use a standard KYB strut and the original springs and mount or buy new mounts directly from Toyota, and yes Toyota does charge a LOT for their mounts as well.
Wtf is Tiota🤔
Would you recommend going to advance auto parts for the Toyota spark plugs?